come quickly, September...

Well, it looks like I've managed to survive (most of) another Southern summer without melting and/or complaining incessantly. I think I was better than ever about resisting the urge to use the oven, dishwasher, and any other heat sources in the kitchen as freely as I do when temperatures are more moderate. That and a list of summer meal ideas (which I didn't actually consult much; merely making it was some sort of psychological boost) helped a lot. But having had a taste of cool mornings lately, I am more restless than ever to start using my oven for middle-of-the-day baking projects and slow-cooked meats; I have always intensely looked forward to fall for many reasons, and as I cook more the anticipation grows each year. Spring and summer certainly have their culinary delights, but for me, primarily a baker, the prospect of cooler weather leading up to the best of all holidays (Thanksgiving, closely followed of course by Christmas) is more tantalizing than anything.

I started making a top ten list in my head of the dishes I will be making as soon as it cools down. They are:

1. Pork vindaloo (from Best International Recipe; review here). My Indian repertoire currently consists of this stew and a delicious recipe for coconut milk-braised green beans, so I can't speak to authenticity or anything, but just as a stew it is fantastic.

2. Spiced carrot soup (adapted from Cafe Bouloud, as printed in CI's Restaurant Favorites at Home). I've rarely made a soup with such complex flavors--the finish with fresh carrot juice is brilliant--and the smell of the carrots braising in coconut milk and curry powder is out of this world. The original recipe calls for shrimp, and it does work well, but I often just make it plain and serve with a hearty, interesting salad and bread.

3. Spanish-style pork loin with sherry-raisin vinaigrette. This was a seriously good pork roast and I wrote about it here.

4. Chicken in a pot (much more elegantly known by its French name, poulet en cocotte). I tried this once last year out of BIR, and it was quite good, though it took much longer to finish than indicated and that always gets me flustered. It was still, as promised, a very low-fuss way of evenly cooking a whole chicken while keeping it moist, and it tasted very French and refined. And wintry.

5. Any big old cheesy pasta casserole that takes two hours to bake--any at all. Pastitsio in particular. (Another nice thing about cooler weather is that my motivation to exercise is ten times what it is in the summer, which is good because pastitsio will make even me feel compelled to schedule an extra few minutes into my next workout. And I am not a calorie-counter.)

6. Thai chicken soup (tom kha gai), also from BIR. The lemongrass, the coconut milk, the sweat-inducing spice from the chiles and curry paste...I could eat this stuff every day.

7. Sweet potatoes: baked, in soups, in pies, anything. There's a mashed sweet potatoes with vanilla recipe in Restaurant Favorites that I also need to try. Cream, vanilla, butter, and the best vegetable ever. How could that go wrong?

8. Chowder. Specifically corn (with generous amounts of bacon) and clam. I was fairly addicted to this clam chowder last year.

9. Simple, one-dish meat and potato meals you stick in the oven and forget about, like this one. That was a good recipe. Also, braised beef with polenta and crusty bread. Lucky you, the beef recipe is on Google Books here.

10. A hundred variations on grilled cheese and only one (the best) cream of tomato soup. CI's 30-minute tomato soup, to be exact. I've tried their standard (more time-consuming) soup, too, and I think it has nothing on the quick one. I must have made this soup 100 times last year and never got the slightest bit sick of it. Below is my adaptation of the recipe.


Cream of Tomato Soup
adapted from Cook's Illustrated, Best 30-Minute Recipe
3 (14.5 oz) cans diced tomatoes
3 c. Swanson low-sodium or homemade chicken broth, plus maybe a little more
2 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. butter
1 onion, minced
1 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 Tbsp. flour
1/3 c. heavy cream
2 tsp. dry sherry

1. Put the tomatoes one can at a time into a strainer set over a large bowl. Squeeze out as much juice as you can: ideally you'll get 2 cups after all the cans are strained. Add broth to equal 5 cups of liquid. Bring the broth /juice mixture with the bay leaves to a boil in a medium saucepan, then cover and keep warm.
2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Add the drained tomatoes, onion, brown sugar, tomato paste, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes look dry and are beginning to brown, 10-12 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute.
3. Slowly whisk or stir in the hot broth mixture. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes to blend flavors.
4. Remove the bay leaves, then puree the soup in batches in a blender. (With hot liquids it's best to remove the little plastic cap inside the lid, and cover the hole with a thickly folded dish towel under your hand.) Return pureed soup to the pot and stir in the cream and sherry. Bring it just to a simmer, then remove from heat, season with salt and cayenne pepper to taste, and serve. (Yield: 6 servings. If you want to make this a day or two ahead, don't add the cream and sherry until you reheat it before serving.)

Black-eyed pea cakes: a belated review

A couple weeks ago I finally got around to making this delicious vegetarian take on black-eyed pea cakes from Restaurant Favorites at Home. This book is one installment in the Cook's Illustrated Best Recipe "series," if a line of cookbooks can be called such. Since I gather from fruitless Google searches that it is not widely reviewed online (probably because it was published in 2003, right around when blogs were gaining ground as a high school "fad," and further because it seems to have gone out of print since then), I want to try to review everything I make from it on this blog.

Since it was just two of us for lunch, I halved both components of this recipe (said to serve 6). I had tons of sauce leftover, and especially for lunch portions, 3 cakes each (which comes out to be the serving size) was a bit too much. I wouldn't call these dainty little things. Especially relevant for entertaining, you have the option of making the cakes ahead, up to the frying---ironically an overnight rest was deleted from the original restaurant recipe because of the challenges that planning ahead could pose for the home cook. I made the cakes the night before (which means you have to soak the black-eyed peas the night before that) and brought them most of the way to room temperature before frying, just to be safe. I wouldn't make the sauce ahead, as I thought the texture suffered quite a bit the next day(s). (Did I mention I had a lot left over?!)

My one major problem with the outcome was that while dipping them in the panko before frying, several of the cakes "crumbled" a bit, and a couple completely fell apart, making them un-fryable. But that was almost certainly due to the fact that I could not properly puree part of the beans (lacking a food processor), as the recipe tells you to do presumably to help them bind better. So I don't think that's a recipe problem: just be sure not to skip the puree.

Sauce in the making: looks like Christmas!

The sauce was very quick and easy, and pretty tasty. There's something so restaurant-esque to me about making a sauce that begins with a bunch of chopped stuff on the stovetop and ends in a smooth puree in the blender... Anyway, for me this sauce wouldn't be spicy unless you added a good deal more Tabasco. (I would want to try it now with the chipotle Tabasco I opened up the other night, which I found fairly addictive.)

The only pictures I took of the leftover cakes (which I put back in the fridge until frying the next day) were terribly out of focus and not worth posting. Overall I'd give this recipe a 6/10. Perfectly decent flavor, not too fussy, and a nice option for a Southern vegetarian (rare combination!) lunch or main course.

Orzo salad with serrano ham and roasted peppers

We tried serrano ham for the first time in this dish a couple nights ago, which I made based on an intriguing Epicurious recipe. Apart from M's reasonable point that it seemed like more of a side salad than a main dish, we both enjoyed it a lot, and I found it plenty for a light supper. I didn't take a picture because the end result looked kind of like a mess after I mixed it all up; it would be much prettier as a layered salad perhaps. I was surprised at how creamy and flavorful the dressing was: I've never made one that started out with equal parts almonds and water, but it definitely works.

Spanish orzo salad
Yield: 2 main-dish or about 4 side servings
(You will have a fair amount of leftover dressing; you may have to puree it again with a little water to return it to the proper consistency after a couple days in the fridge, as I've just discovered.)

1 small, or 1/2 a large, shallot, chopped fine
1/2 tsp. sea salt
1/2 c. plus 2 Tbsp. blanched slivered almonds, toasted and cooled
1/2 c. water
1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 generous pinch piment d'espelette, or 1/4 tsp. hot sauce (like Tabasco)
1/8 tsp. fresh ground black pepper
4 oz. dry orzo, cooked al dente, then drained and tossed with a tsp. olive oil and spread out over a baking sheet to cool to room temp.
about half a 12 oz jar of piquillo, or regular red/yellow roasted peppers, rinsed and patted dry, then sliced thin
1 large slice serrano ham, sliced into ribbons
2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced into eighths

To make the dressing, combine the shallot, salt, 1/2 c. almonds, water, vinegar, oil, hot sauce or piment, and pepper in a blender; puree til completely smooth. Taste and season if necessary.

Scrape the cooled orzo into a bowl and combine with a couple spoonfuls of dressing. At this point you could assemble the salad in layers, or just mix the orzo with the ham, peppers, and reserved 2 Tbsp. almonds, then arrange the sliced eggs on top of each serving with another sprinkle of the piment d'espelette and/or drizzle of dressing.

Lemongrass-lime leaf soda

I love the idea of making "custom" sodas like this (which has 8 grams of sugar per serving as opposed to about 35-40 in a canned drink), because I feel like I should at least avoid sodas loaded with sugar on top of my regular dessert habit...This drink doesn't taste like a compromise at all. It's extremely flavorful and perfectly sweet, and if you can't find lime leaves, just double the amount of lime zest.

Lemongrass-lime leaf soda
Makes 12
from Bon Appetit, May 2011

Lemongrass-infused mixture:
1/4 c. lemon zest (from about 6 lemons)
1/4 c. lime zest (from about 8 limes)
20 kaffir lime leaves
2 stalks lemongrass, roughly chopped (you usually have to peel off the tough outer layers to be able to chop it easily)
2 cups water

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer about 5 minutes. Strain into a jar and let cool, then chill.

Simple syrup:
1/2 c. sugar
1/2 c. water

Heat in a saucepan over medium heat til sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally. Pour into a jar and let cool, then cover and store in the fridge up to 1 month.

To assemble the drinks:
Fill a 12-oz glass with ice; add 2 Tbsp of the lemongrass mixture and 1 Tbsp of the simple syrup, then top off with about 1/2 cup of seltzer/soda water. Stir to combine and enjoy.